Tommy Hilfiger a 44 year old designer has figured out a secret many others have not. An avid researcher, Tommy has picked up on the trend throughout America. With the information Hilfiger receives he has developed a diverse line of clothing. Ads and endorsements for Tommy have been ubiquitous. Each advertisement urges buyers to yearn for prestige. Those who wear Tommy attire range from Wall Street executives to prominent rap star Coolio. Tommy has managed to target the prestigious icons in both groups. Recently a new style has emerged on the streets, a trend called Urban-prep. Inner city kids have began to emulate a combination of baggy street clothes along with work attire. We wonder what the new trend says about our society.
In attempts to target both groups Hilfiger assembled advertisements which overcame racial boundaries. In his ads he incorporates both African Americans with Caucasians. Together the two groups sit harmoniously on a couch, as if they were spending a great weekend. The advertisement plays to both inner-city kids and the upper class who both search for a sense of prestige.
In terms of the Tommy Hilfiger ad it depicts American life for the privileged few. As we examine the advertisement, the following props are not unintentional. The props epitomize the life of the rich, the misty fall weather lingers behind the models in the ad and a shingled tawny colored mansion with white trim is placed to the right of the models. Also, the eye can not help but notice the American flag blowing "freely" in the East Coast air. Advertisers for Tommy Hilfiger purposely placed the articles amongst the models, in hopes to illustrate the all-American Tommy feel. Tommy has all his bases covered. In terms of well-bred preppies Hilfiger has created ads that illustrate life for the privileged.
These models are products of wealthy families, it is evident since all the models are twenty to thirty somethings. The mansion is not the only cue which illustrates their assumed wealth. All the models proudly wear clothing with the Tommy logo in plain sight. Without the simple red, white and blue flag, Tommy attire would cost and look like all other clothing. The four males dress in a casual style, but they are all wearing multiple shirts. The layering effect (wearing multiple layers for style and warmth) is "in." "..they (teens) layer these items with prototypically preppy styles" (Hochswender). Although the style is in fashion, most low income, impoverished children would not wear various layers for the sole purpose of fashion. "The object itself really doesn't matter, since it ultimately disappears behind the presumed social potency of its owner." (Soloman, p.49) This quote comes from Soloman's investigation of social status. Since the models are presumably rich the added clothing is an attempt to confirm their wealth; the more the object lacks usefulness the more it becomes a status symbol.
Tommy advertisers have attempted to convey a message of prestige with all of their ads. It is evident that when designers created their clothing they desired to find male white collar thirty somethings in search of respect. Respect amongst his peers as well as in the workplace. For this reason they developed their pinstriped button-ups, slacks and ties. Along with this semi-formal work attire they created casual clothing. Khaki's, canvas shoes and oxford slouch shirts were all apart of the Tommy style for the weekend. The work and casual wardrobe, dressed the college educated working male, exactly the audience Tommy wished to sell to. Those who wear these items often times are viewed by society as respectful.
Although most advertisements are targeted seemingly only to the rich, this is not true. As we take a closer look at the advertisement, we notice that as the models sit amongst eachother, their attire has a hint of urban street wear. The white undershirt with baggy jeans is most likely a style copied from the streets. Tommy noticed that kids in the street wore this style.
The need to remain competitive
drove Tommy to design a new style of clothing. Tommy Hilfiger clothing began
creating a new twist to the classic Tommy attire. Groups of teens were sent
out in to the streets of New York by Hilfiger. The teens pseudo field trip to
clubs, record stores and "other spots where the urban buzz first started buzzing,"(Levine
p.142) provided Hilfiger information as to what today's youth are wearing. Surprisingly
Hilfiger found youths preferred to wear clothes which were oversized. Mecca
and Converse were two brands that inner city youth consistently wore. Both these
companies created oversized clothing, in turn these companies were popular amongst
teens. Tommy noticed that inner-city children set the trends for teens in other
cities. " The street don't lie." (Hochswender)
The "Urban-prep" style emerged as Tommy noticed kids wearing baggy denim along with crisp white button-up shirts, a combination of street wear and prep school boy. "It's a baffling look, with its blend of inner-city angst and private-school sangfroid, they're walking oxymorons" (Hochswender, p131). As Tommy noticed the changing trend he revamped his style to fit the new urban-prep style. Tommy stated, "I think it's very cool that I can walk down Fifth Avenue and see a messenger wearing my rugby shirt five sixes too big, and then go to Wall Street and see an investment banker wearing my pinstripes." (Hochswender, p 131).
After establishing a new Hilfiger look, Hilfiger distributed attire to prestigious rap stars such as: Coolio, Q-tip, Puffy and Treach. In a recent poll Hilfiger found that $325 million of his profits were spent by African Americans. (Esquire) For this reason Hilfiger found it fitting to wardrobe these artists. "I don't condone violence and I think 'gansta rap' should be outlawed, " says Hilfiger, " but the music is powerful because the musicians are irreverent an don't follow the rules. I don't tell them where to make their money and I don't tell them where to spend their money" (Esquire).
Tommy is definitely not complaining as to the influx of demand on his new line of clothing. By providing infamous rap stars Tommy has advertised inadvertently[ ?]. When these rap artist, who are prestigious in their field, wear this attire rappers demonstrate to rap listeners that Tommy Hilifiger is Rin. Q-tip a rapper who created a song placing Hilifiger in high esteem. The lyrics place Hilifiger and himself (Q-tip) on the same level, quite the complement to Hilfiger:
"Tommy Hilfger was my nigger/and others couldn't figure/ how me and Hilfiger use to move thru with vigor/had to sit and plan how to make these seven figures" (Levine).
This song plays to inner city childrenUs desire to attain prestige as their icons have, Q-tip and other rappers.
But we begin to wonder what the sudden demand on Urban Prep says about inner city culture. As many Hilfiger ads demonstrate the apex of success is prestige. Since many inner city kids search for belonging in their society they dress to fit in. The combination of street style with white collar attire creates for the perfect mixture. With both styles a teen can still be very much apart of the "in" style street culture, but at the same time receive respect.
The only concern Hilfiger voices is that he hopes his clothes are not worn by the RwrongS people. (Doebele, p. 65) This concern seems to be a bit of an oxymoron. Hilfiger worries that inner city kids will create a bad name for his prestigious line. Although Hilifiger developed his Urban Prep wear, he uncovered street style and emulated it with his line. Hilifiger even went as far as to donate his style to rap stars, in hopes the artist would promote his clothing. The "wrong" people are not wearing his clothing, since his original intent for this line was to target the exact people who are purchasing his product. Tommy has created his own source of disaster.
Not only does Hilifiger wish for inner city kids to wear his clothes with class, he does not want kids to make his attire trendy. Hilfiger understands that his fame could quickly die. In fears of this Hilfiger wishes to keep his line classic, traditional. This is the parodax Hilifger must deal with, which clientele to target either the wealthy or street kids.
Regardless of his dilema, Hilifiger has targeted both inner city and upper class clientele. From advertising to east coast wealth and east coast rap, Hilfiger's profits have soared. $41 million in 1995 (Doebele, p.65). Even though Hilfiger grapples with difficult choices of who and how to advertise, he has attained his goal. There (is no) need to be a bridge between corporate America and African-American market, and the color to focus on its green, not black.